★ Who’s HOT? / Who’s NOT ★

22 Feb

Women

★ 50’s Magic ★

The 1950s were centred on innovation, as the decade went by, the post war blues gave way to the unstoppable feeling of reconstruction and innovation. From a fashion viewpoint, Christian Dior’s new look was at the centre of feminine fashion. The simple concept of a cinched waist and a full skirt underneath was pure genius. 70 years later, and it still works. For Spring Summer the ladylike silhouette and dimension are undisputed protagonists.

HOT

  Cute & cheer dress (cinched waist and a full skirt)  from Dolce & Gabbana  Spring 12

.

NOT

  Graphic printed dress with strong colors Peter Pilotto  Spring 12

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★ 60’s Revival ★

The clean graphic lines of Sixties are a valid alterative for the highly charged silhouettes of the 1950s. The simple A line skirts and dresses are a strong trend. The highly decorated fabrics lend texture and depth to beautifully simple silhouettes.

HOT

  Printed shirt with hot orange pants from Milly Spring 12

.

NOT

  Boring graphic printed from J.W. Anderson Spring 12

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★ Capri Style ★

The key looks confirmed for the sportswear in Spring Summer 12 are minimal and streamlined. The essence is resort chic, a nod to the days of a vintage Capri where the likes of Jackie O graced the island, and the fashion set.

HOT

  Wrapped blouse with vintage capri pants from Emanuel Ungaro  Spring 12

.

NOT

  This capri pants look totally like sportswear from Rag & Bone Spring 12

.

★ Candy Time ★

The new colour direction for Spring Summer 12 is light pastels. Creamy ice cream, or clean candy colours are inspired by a definitely Fifties palette. Baby pink, sky blue, lemon yellow and mint green add an unexpected charm and innocence to the very grown up silhouettes.

HOT

  Lace dress in orange pastel color from Dolce & Gabbana  Spring 12

.

NOT

  The color should be lighter than these from Diane von Furstenberg Resort 12

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★ Printed Galore ★

Forget colour blocking, next summer is all about prints- in all shapes and sizes. From horticultural to heraldic the print takes centre stage this season.

HOT

  Vintage printed handkerchiefs worn as a dress from D & G  Spring 12

.

NOT

 This printed is too boring from  Andrew Gn Spring 11

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★ Daisy Daisy ★

He loves me, he loves me not. Daisies are the new floral print for ss12. The delicate petals and simple colours of the daisy are emblematic of the mood of the season. The daisy is omnipresent, as an appliqué, in a maxi print or mixed with other flowers (and veggies too).

HOT

 Daisy on dress make it feels fresh & cheer from Dolce & Gabbana  Spring 12

.

NOT

 This daisy printed dress totally looks passionless from  Marni  Spring 12

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★ Full Skirt & Bra ★

Gym alert! Start doing your crunches as the cropped top has made an appearance for next summer. Either as a fully-fledged bra or more like a simple camisole, Spring Summer 12 is all about the waist. Match to full skirts for a 1950s feel in vivid colours to balance the silhouette.

HOT

  Red hot chili printed from Dolce & Gabbana  Spring 12

.

NOT

  Cute but not hot enough from Badgley Mischka Spring 12

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★ Wrap Up ★

Utility is also an underlying trend for Spring Summer 12. The idea that a beautiful skirt can be whipped up out of a square of material is fanciful yet real – the sarong skirt is born.

HOT

  Wrapped Skrit from Salvatore Ferragamo  Spring 12

.

NOT

  This should be in Thai movie or some tribe from Damir Duma  Spring 12

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★ Lace ★

Spring Summer 12 sees an evolution of the current lace trend. Next summer’s materials are more structured, in keeping with the leading silhouettes of the season. The finish is more artisanal, more akin to couture.

HOT

Cute & sweet lace from Valentino Spring 12

.

NOT

 Actually its not lace, its net from Jean Paul Gaultier S/S 11

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★ 3D Applications ★

The couture references in the season couldn’t be stronger than hand made appliqué details. From flowers to birds, 3d details were a key for Spring Summer 12.

HOT

  Jumpsuit with roses embroidered from Moncler Gamme Spring 12

.

NOT

 The 3D closet could only be on runway from Manish Arora Spring 12

.

★ Wide Leg Pants ★

HOT

  Black wide legged pants from Issa A/W 11

.

NOT

 Gray pants from Roland Mouret S/S 11

.

★ Tuxedo Jacket ★

HOT

 White shorts and tuxedo jacket  from Doo.Ri S/S 12

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NOT but Classic

 Classic black dinner jacket from Ruffian A/W 11

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★ Leather Harness ★

HOT

 Light color of leather harness from Felder Felder  S/S 12

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NOT but Classic

 Black leather harness from Herve Leger A/W 11

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★ High Slit Dress ★

HOT

 Ivory slit front dress from Elie Saab S/S 12

.

NOT

▲ High slit dress in Chinese style from Louis Vuitton S/S 11

.

★ 60’s Peter Pan Collar ★

HOT

 The fresh, candy colours of spring: a sweet sixties look from Jill Stuart  S/S 12

.

NOT

▲ The black and white strictness from Louis Vuitton A/W 11

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★ Swimsuit ★

HOT

 Printed bodysuit from D&G  Spring 12

.

NOT

A patterned bikini with vintage swimwear styling from Kooey  S/S 11

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Men

★ Sunbleached Neutrals ★

Linen and cotton sand-hued separates graced the Milan/Paris catwalks lending the season an easy chic mood. A perfect accompaniment to that Mediterranean tan, summer neutrals are all the rage.

HOT

 Dolce & Gabbana  Fall 12

.

NOT

 Rick Ownes  Spring 12

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★ Summer Blue ★

Reminiscent of the crystalline Mediterranean waters, blue is the colour for ss 12. From navy to azur passing by lapis and indigo the whole tonal spectrum of blue was present on the Milan/Paris catwalks. Teamed with orange or yellow, blue can make a real statement. Paired with white, the marina chic look is complete.

HOT

 Acne  Spring 12

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NOT

 Dsquared²  Spring 10

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★ Colored Suits ★

Moving forward from the very masculine blue, other brights lit up the catwalks in Milan/Paris. Parrot greens, oranges and highlighter yellow contrasted with warm hues of berry. The trend is easy to wear: interpret it with knitwear or even leather, while for the more daring a few tailored suits in bright fluo pink colour made an appearance on the runway.

HOT

 Bright Burgundy suits from Gucci

.

NOT

 Light green suits from Kenzo

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★ Soft Tailoring ★

In keeping with the laid-back feel of the season, soft tailoring is the only way to sport sartorial excellence. Soft silhouettes, unlined jackets and low- rise trousers are perfect to keep cool in the summer heat. For this casual/formal hybrid in linen, washed cotton and soft denim, the more crumpled the better.

HOT

 Salvatore Ferragamo  Spring 12

.

NOT

 Calvin Klein  Spring 12

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★ Loose Pants ★

HOT

▲ Drop crotch from Dolce & Gabbana  Fall 12

.

NOT

Tailored suit and loose pants from Miharayasuhiro  S/S 11

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★ Pleated Pants ★

HOT

 Pleated pants from Vivienne Westwood

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NOT

 Pleated pants from Ports 1961

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★ Short Suits ★

Much in the same way as in womenswear, tailoring has undergone a transformation in recent seasons. Traditional proportions, especially in classic menswear, have been turned on their heads and have resulted in shorter blazers or trousers with dropped crotches.

HOT

 Short navy suits from Yves Saint Laurent

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NOT

 Short Suits in light blue from Kenzo

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★ Plaid / Check★

Summer tartans and checks provide an alternative to the louder tropical prints for 2012. Available in the subtle hues of neutrals, eye popping brights or in a monochrome palette, checks adorn lightweight overcoats, shirts and suits galore.

HOT

 Check Suits from Gucci  Spring 12

.

NOT

 Check knitwear from Louis Vuitton   Spring 12

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★ Net ★

See through mesh knitwear seems to be man’s alternative to lace for women in 2012. Sexy yet sophisticated, these knits are the perfect way to show some flesh and keep cool in the summer heat. Why not embrace the trend further and move onto netwear? In Dolce & Gabbana’s ss’12 collection the net is presented in different sizes, colours and materials and used either transparent or lined for jackets, trousers, shorts, T-shirts, bomber jackets, tracksuits and sweaters.

HOT

 Net jacket from Dolce & Gabbana  Spring 12

.

NOT

 Net knitwear from Jill Sander  Spring 12

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★ Cropped Pants★

Continuing with the new proportions trend, in Milan/Paris were stomped by models in ankle cropped trousers. Reminiscent of the 1950s mod subculture these tapered pants are perfect for an alternative summer formal look.

HOT

 Burgundy cropped pants from Dolce & Gabbana  Spring 12

.

NOT

 Victor & Rolf  Spring 11

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★ Leather ★

The Harrington jacket is the new biker for 2012. Reworked in luxurious croc or lasered into mesh effect, wear it in a wide a variety of hues from lush cognac to deep blue.

HOT

 Bottega Veneta  Spring 12

.

NOT

 Jean Paul Gaultier  Fall 12

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★ Printed Shirts ★

The all over printed tops are a perfect bridge between the t shirt and casual shirt. The jersey versions with collars are an up to the minute alternative to the classic polo shirt. The bolder the print the better.

HOT

 Dsquared²   Spring 12

.

NOT

 John Richmond  Spring 12

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